We are back in Valencia today after spending four amazing days in Finale Ligure for a short climbing holiday. We had an amazing stay and we got quite impressed by the classic crags and routes of Finale, which celebrated its 50th anniversary last summer. Indeed, some routes have been bolted in 1968 and, believe it or not, are not that polished!
The crags are spread around the valleys and the villages near Finale Ligure and most of them are marked with obvious signs as you walk through the main trails. Some offer great views (Silenzio, Rocca di corno), others are deaper in the forest (Lo Specchio, El Alveare, Scorpion, etc.) and if you know where to go, there are hidden natural gems (Tre Frati, Grotta dell’era). Having only four days, our exploration was limited, but all the crags we saw had their good climbs (see recommended routes below).
We decided to stay at Bed&Climb with Paola and Mauro after reading good comments about them and we could not have done a better choice! Every morning, we got up to those amazing breakfasts and fresh grounded coffee, talking with the hosts next to the fire to decide which walls we were going to aim to, sometimes planning the day with them as they were climbing with us!! They treated us like family, explained us how to get to the different crags, drawing detailed maps for us and giving lists of recommended routes. Both are passionated about rock climbing and implicated in the maintenance of the crags of Finale: they built their own climbing association, climbing gym and climbing event (Finale for Nepal – September); they rebolted old routes and cleared the paths to the crags, which makes them a good reference – if not THE reference – when it comes to climbing around Finale.
If you have some free days and flights to Genova or Turin are cheap, keep Finale Ligure in mind! Nice climbs, nice climbing community, amazing food and good memories guaranteed!!
Where to eat?
Eating in Orco Feglino can be hard! Restaurants have crazy schedule, some being only opened during weekends or high season. Make sure you CALL before going, since schedule on Google is NOT up to date.
- La fornace (cheap pizza, good entrances, ok pastas) | Feglino
- Il Portico (fancy restaurant where you can learn how to do pesto!) | Feglino
- Il Pinolo Barz (8) (nice lasagna, fancy tiramisu, good wine) | Finale Ligure
Where to sleep?
- Bed&Climb (amazing hosts, delicious breakfasts, half and hour walk to some crags, rustic style)
- Vans/ Bivouac (tolerated in some parkings. Get informed prior to your trip and be respectful to the environment if you choose this kind of accommodation!)
- Tons of hotels in Finale Ligure! Close to the beach and different villages.
- Rombo di Vento (6c) – Rocca di Corno
- Mug (6b) – Rocca di Corno
- Golden Lady (6b+) – Silenzio
- Siddharta (7a+) – Silenzio
- Schizzechea (7a+) – Lo Specchio
- Il cammino di isengard (6a+) – Lo Specchio
- Bombolo (6b) – Grotta dell’Edera