[:en]Rock climbing guides in Valencia, Spain[:es]Guías de escalada en roca en Valencia, España[:]
Regulations of the rock climbing areas of the Valencian Community
Visit this page frequently to check the current regulations in the different rock climbing areas of the Valencian area.
Nesting
Most climbing areas in the region are limestone, often with large cavities where birds make their nests or bats inhabit. If you find a nest on a route, get off immediately and notify other climbers. If the first plates are removed, surely we should not climb the route either by nesting, possible landslides or other reasons.
Camping
Free camping in nature is prohibited. Please camp only in places enabled for it. Park only in the areas indicated in the climbing guidebooks and respect private lands. Making fire in outdoors is strictly prohibited.
Trash
Collect all the trash you have generated during the day. If you can collect some garbage that you find at the climbing area or on the access paths, you will be collaborating with the cleaning of the area. Remember that biodegradable waste is also trash and if it came in your backpack, you must take it with you as well.
Bolting
Before bolting a new route in the nature, find out about the existing regulations and ask for the corresponding permits to the owners of the area or the administration in each case.
Climbing prohibited in Risco del Morrónfrom December 1st to September 15th due to nesting of threatened birds.
Climbing prohibited in Barranco de la Maimona from the containment dam (sectors Espolón de los Agujeros and Diedro del Negre) from January 1st to June 30th due to nesting of threatened birds. In the sector Pared de las Catedrales climbing is prohibited all year long due to natural microreserve
Oropesa
Climbing prohibited in El Doradofrom January 1st to June 30th due to nesting of threatened birds.
Climbing prohibited in the South face of Penyagolosa throughout the year.
Note: Park owners have recently banned climbing although the Park’s regulation allows it. They are trying to reach an agreement, although some routes such as Green Day and Bellavista have already been unbolted.
Climbing prohibited in barranco de Carcalin between the railway bridge and the tunnel exit from January 1st to June 30th due to impact on protected species.
Moixent
Climbing prohibited in Bastida sectorsfrom January 1st to June 30th due to nesting of threatened birds.
Climbing prohibited in the Nort-Nortwest face of Peñón de Ifach from April 1st to June 30th due to nesting of threatened birds.
Note: Although climbing on the South face is not prohibited, climbing during these months is not recommended as seagulls attack climbers, becoming very uncomfortable and sometimes even becoming dangerous.
To access the Peñón de Ifach Natural Park, a reservation is required due to capacity restrictions to preserve the area. Access is free, but reservations are mandatory. Reservations can be made up to 10 days in advance of the desired date through the Natural Parks of the Valencian Community website and they need to be individually made (one reservation per person). The maximum number of visitors allowed is 300 per day (hikers and climbers included).
Benidorm
Prior notification is required throughout the year to climb in Serra Gelada. No specific authorization is required for climbing, although notification of the activity to the Natural Park is required via email at serragelada@gva.es.
Cabeço d’Or
Climbing prohibited in East face of Esquenall from Raco del Caldero to El Collado (sport sectors Sherpita and Sherpa ) from January 1st to June 30th.
Mascarat
Climbing is prohibited within the micro-reserve, except with express authorization for scientific or conservation purposes. Some routes, such as the Llobet-Bartomeu, may not be prohibited, as they lie further to the left and, according to the maps, would be outside the micro-reserve.
Onil
Climbing prohibited in Agujas Rojasfrom March 1st to May 31st due to nesting of threatened birds.
Redován
Climbing prohibited in Botri and Los Cortaos sectorsfrom January 1st June 30th due to nesting of threatened birds.
Salinas
Climbing prohibited in Salinasfrom March 1st to June 1st due to nesting of threatened birds.
Xàbia
Climbing prohibited in Cova Ampla del Montgóthroughout the year. Only trad climbing is allowed as long as proper authorization is obtained from the Park.