The most iconic mountain of the entire Costa Blanca is Peñon de Ifach, located in a Natural Area, in the city of Calpe. This impressive 332 meters limestone pillar rises on the coast, surrounded by the sea. On the north and south faces of this gigantic rock, there are many multi-pitch routes reaching the top of the mountain. The north face is of white limestone, with shorter routes and has some restrictions due to bird nesting from the of 1st April to the 31st of June. Most of the routes are concentrated in the south face, recognized for its orange limestone and overhangs. The best season to climb here is when the weather is not too warm. The views from Peñon de Ifach are breathtaking and climbing over the crystal clear water makes the experience unforgettable.
Calpe is a very touristic city with all kind of facilities and very crowded in summer. The surroundings of Calpe offer many different activities such as hiking, trail running, diving, kayaking, sailing and even sport climbing (single pitches). The single pitch sport climbing routes can be found in Sierra de Toix, a mountain ridge next to Calpe. It also offers nice views and has a wide range of climbing grades.
Reservations
To access the Peñón de Ifach Natural Park, a reservation is required due to capacity restrictions to preserve the area. Access is free, but reservations are mandatory. Reservations can be made up to 10 days in advance of the desired date through the Natural Parks of the Valencian Community website and they need to be individually made (one reservation per person). The maximum number of visitors allowed is 300 per day (hikers and climbers included).
Regulations
The North-Northwest face has climbing regulations due to bird nesting from April 1st to June 30th. Although the South face has no climbing regulations, it can be very annoying to climb there during the nesting period as seagulls often bother and attack climbers when they pass near their nests.
Climbing Rally
In mid-May takes part the Rally 12 hores d’escalada al Penyal d’Ifach, an intense event that consists of climbing the maximum number of routes in Peñón de Ifach in 12 hours and it is one of the four official events of the national rock climb rally league.
Climbing topos of Calpe
Multi-pitch routes at Peñon de Ifach
- Diedro UBSA 220m, 5+
- Piratas 240m 5+
- Valencianos 260m, 5+
- Directa UBSA 180m, 6a A0
- Polvos Mágicos 230m, 6a+
- Jhesus 250m, 6b
- Me estoy quedando sin yemas 105m, 6b/A0
- La Manuel 250m, 6b/A0
- Virginia Díez 110m, 6b+
- Costa miserables 200m, 6b+
- Sensación de vivir 250m, 6b+
- Pilar López de Sancho 200m, 6c
- Anglada Gallego 300m, 6c
- Costa Blanca 210m, 6c+
- Los Miserables 240m, 6c+
- El navegante 200m, 7a
- Puto paseo ecológico 200m, 7a
- Los Lunes al Sol 300m, 7a
- Mare Nostrum 240m, 7a+
- Pilar López de Pancho 170m, 7b
- Nueva dimensión 350m, 7b
- Guillem Sendra 7c+/8a
- Gómez – Cano 280m, 6b A1
- Revelación 350m, 6b+ A1
- Línea Mágica 6c A1
- Sin permiso de obras 450m, 7a+, A1
- Superdirecta 350m 7a A1+
- Herbes màgiques 350m, 6b A2
- La nariz 350m, 6b A2
- Espacio Libre 310m, 6b+ A2
You can find more detailed information about the multi-pitch routes on the website Senderos de la roca