Montserrat

Montserrat

ValenciaClimb junto a algunos amigos suecos fuimos la semana pasada en un viaje de tres días a Montserrat. Como queríamos combinar la escalada, un poco de senderismo y turismo elegimos escalar cerca del monasterio de Montserrat.

El primer día estuvimos calentando un poco en los sectores cerca del camping. Queríamos dormir en el camping al lado del monasterio, pero es un sitio muy peculiar. No pudimos llegar porque es imposible acceder con coche. Para dormir allí es obligatorio tener tienda.

Lowering a bit the standard we decided to sleep next to a closed refuge St. Cecilia together with some other local climbers. While others were preparing food one was collecting information about the best climbing around. The problem with Montserrat is that it is huge. You have to choose one area where you want to climb and as many climbers you find there that many other ideas about the best climbs you can get. Buying all the climbing guides is useless and it’s better to collect information on a site. Guidebooks can be find in hands of others, the camping and a climbing refuge St. Benet. Sant Benet was our next night destination. But before we went to some other peaks to find very easy and well equipped climbing. With our 100 meters rope we were even able to connect sometimes the first two pitches and make 50 meters top ropes. The grade on routes we climb was true. Routes graded five where truly easy climbs where everybody could easily move. The third day we decided to try some harder climbs in Sant Benet where what is more grade is considered to be very hard.

Foto: Pablo Benedito

The night we spend in the refuge in Sant Benet. It is a very climbers friendly place. Where just for five euro you can find a place to sleep with your own sleeping bag, water, heat, some beer and a very unique climate. It is the only refuge where you can smoke inside though all the others roles are to be respected. You want find there many facilities like toilet or a shower nether. The evening we spend playing ‘Janga’ and talking. Some people where snoring during the night. The refuge is an old small church – that is no longer a church – there is only one big room and you can very clearly here other people moving and making sounds.

After a lazy morning, cafe from the refuge’s boos and a healthy breakfast we went climbing.The crags we choose with two guys from the refuge. That wasn’t easy as they had many ideas. All in all we did climb on some sunny crags but covered with trees. It was sunny but a bit windy and the temperature was pleasant for not too hard climbs. We warmed up on a five and already noticed that it was a bit harder than those form yesterday.But still might be considered as a five. We had time only until 5 pm so moving fast we did some lower sixes. Piotr wanted to check weather what people say about the grade is true. He did one 7a+ OS. After that saying – ufff… I had to fight as on an 8a+ J. We all noticed that the grading is hard. But none of us thought it was totally missed.Just the style of climbing is a hard one. Many holds but many too small to hold. Sometimes you might think that the next one is huge but it’s not. Climbing in Montserrat requires very good foot work and technical skills. Because of that one can learn a lot while climbing in Montserrat.

Tarn

Photo: Volodymir Koziy

Visitar este maravilloso lugar en el camino a Céüse fue estupendo. Dividimos el viaje por la mitad y pasamos tres intensivos días de escalada en las largas paredes de caliza. En Tarn puedes levantarte temprano y escalar por la mañana o esperar hasta las tres de la tarde y escalar hasta la noche. Después de levantarnos temprano un par de días escogimos la segunda opción. Y más o menos como en Rodellar – haciendo el vago por la mañana. Kasia estaba leyendo un libro muy gordo. Piotrek estaba estudiando ruso. Nadie sabe por qué, pero sonaba divertido. La escalada en Tarn se divide en dos estilos. Puedes encontrar vías fáciles, normalmente largas. Y por otra parte puedes encontrar vías cortas muy difíciles. Puro grado francés diría yo. Así que si vienes a Tarn ten cuidado con las rutas cortas ya que puede que no seas capaz de hacer un movimiento en las dificultades que normalmente harías a vista. Las vías largas son diferentes.

Hay una río muy agradable en el valle. Es agradable pasar tiempo en el agua a mediodía. Algunos se burlaban del turismo de canoas en Tarn. Creo que es una actividad muy agradable para un día de descanso. Es divertido pero muchos lugares de escalada no sólo son famosos por la escalada, como el barranquismo en Rodellar. Después de estos tres días nos fuimos de Tarn dispuestos a encontrar algún lugar más frío para escalar. Así que nos vamos a Céüse, donde hay que subir un desnivel de unos 500 metros para llegar a la pared, por lo que se está mucho más fresco.

Rodellar

Photo: Volodymir Koziy

The holidays in Rodellar are finished. We enjoyed climbing on big overhangs and tufas. Even though right now some of ValenciaClimb members have problems with finger strength that was lost somewhere in between long endurance climbs in Rodellar. The weather was really nice. For some maybe to hot! And for sure for those who wanted to try hard routes. Jest the first week allowed to try something harder later it got as hot as usual and climbing was possible after five o’clock. Before the climbing time we were spending time reading, drinking coffee, swimming in a still quiet cold river and playing chess. People where coming and going. In general Rodellar was not busy. Maybe people were to come later in July and August when it gets as hot that the climbing is barely possible. Most of us who wanted not only enjoy the heat got to conclusion that during summer it is much better to work or just spend time on a beach. Or go to Alps as we are planning to do soon. There are so many nice places to be seen in France, Switzerland and Austria. You must be aware of rain but still it is worth.

photo VolodymirPhoto: Volodymir Koziy

But still there is something magic in Rodellar and we like coming back there. Spending time with all this people. Maybe during summer it is not climbing what is the most important. 

¡El mundo está lleno de aventuras!

Si todavía no has empezado a escalar, mira en este mapa cuantos sitios bonitos puedes visitar por todo el mundo. Conecta tu pasión por el deporte con tu pasión por viajar. Fuente – www.8a.nu