New Chulilla climbing guidebook

chulilla_guidebook

Chulilla has finally a new updated climbing guidebook! Since last guidebook made by the guys of Rokadicción got sold out, a lot of climbers were waiting for a new one.

The website climbmaps.com offers all topos of the area online and for free, but climbers missed a printed version to put it in the bag and bring it to the wall. The author of the guidebook, guard of the climbers refuge, and responsible of the development of the area, Pedro Pons, has made a great effort by putting all information together of the uncountable sectors of the most famous canyon of Turia river.

Many thanks to all bolters who contributed to the development of this area! Valencia has now a high level climbing area. Thank you to all of them!

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Two climbers in the USA

Our instructor Piotr Bunsch and his girlfriend Kasia Janicka are on the road in USA! There is a long time that this couple dream of climbing the big walls of USA. Multi pitch in Yosemite, Utah desert and some sport climbing and bouldering too! You can follow their adventures on their new website: piotrbunsch.wspinanie.pl. Although it is in Polish, the pictures are very nice 🙂

tlo-strona-wspinacze-1160x500Piotr and Kasia on the road in USA.
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Juantxo Pons climbs his first 9a in Montanejos

On 15.th November 2014 Juantxo Pons did the third ascent of El Gran Bellanco, his first 9a (5.14d) route in the famous Pilas Alcalinas cave in Montanejos. One week later we came a very humid and windy day to try some rope techniques and do some footage. Here is the result!

The route was bolted for C. González and J. Lechuga in 1997 and later rebolted for Nuria Martí and Pedro Pons in 2003. The first ascent of the route is from Pedro Pons and the second is from Ramonet (Ramón Julián).

Juantxo Pons on El Gran Bellanco, 9a in Montanejos from Valencia Climb on Vimeo.

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Klemen Bečan FA onsight Siempre se puede hacer menos, 8c+ in Chulilla

becan_chulilla_1Klemen Bečan in Siempre se Puede Hacer Menos, 8c+. Photo: Anja Bečan

On 30. December 2014 Klemen sends onsight this long line of over 60 meters in the Pared Blanca sector that goes all way up through the wall. Klemen Bečan is now one of a handful of climbers in the world to onsight 8c+ ( 5.14c ) and possibly second behind Patxi Usobiaga to onsight FA the same grade. The route bolted by Pedro Pons and Nuria Martí has a first top just over 30 meters which is 8a, another top at 40 meters is 8b and at 65 meters is 8c+.

In mid-February is the german climber Daniel Jung who on a visit to the Valencian climbing area makes the first repetition of the route after three tries.

Dedicated: Klemen Bečan from Ulric Rousseau on Vimeo.

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Piotr Bunsch sends Le Cabane au Canada, his first 9a route

Piotr Bunsch, founder of ValenciaClimb, sends Le Cabane au Canada in Rawyl (Switzelrand), his first 9a route. We want to know how was this experience and we ask him some questions about the route.

CabaneauCanada1Photo: Guillaume Oberi

First of all, congratulations Piotr for this incredible achievement! Why have you actually chosen this route for your first 9a?
There is no particular reason why I chose Le Cabane au Canada. We were on the way back from a long climbing trip in Spain and France and we stopped by in Switzerland. I didn’t know I was going to try it and what is more I already felt tired after two months of constant climbing. I had the route in mind and I knew ‘she’ was there. What is more Ondra onsighted Cabana a few days before we came to Rawyl and my little friend who I was travelling with also had his sights set on it. What is more Rawyl is beautiful and it is a place where you really want to spend time. Even though it is sometimes raining and it is being cold. In return you get a magnificent views, fresh air and perfect quality of limestone. So I did – I tried my first 9a.

When have you sent Le Cabane au Canada?
I was very close during the last year’s summer (2013). I felt three times on the last hard move and once after the crux on a 6a move. After that I decided to go home thinking that the route is always going to be there and I could come back whenever I want and so I did. This time starting my summer trip in Rawyl. I had had some good training period and I knew I was well prepared to send it. So in 2014 it took me one day of worm up and I climbed it the following day – easy 😀

How many attempts have you needed?
Well quite a few I must say! 15 last year and 4 this year…

CabaneauCanadaPhoto: Guillaume Oberi

How is this route?
The route consists of three boulder sections (power endurance) with fairly good rests in between followed by a 15 meters of 7b+ leading to a very good ledge. You can almost reset yourself and prepare for the attack. I was even thinking of depositing some water and power bars there :). The last boulder section is the hardest. Though this year it seemed easy to me. It is 8b if climbed from a ground. And what you climb before would be 8c/c+.

What was the most difficult for you?
Psychological aspect I think. It was hard to leave the resting ledge before the last section keeping in mind that you had climbed so much already and could fell after one move after rest. I always spent too much time resting but eventually it didn’t matter.

How do you feel after climbing 9a?
Nothing special. Just another hard route. I still feel like climbing more and harder. When I reached the anchor I didn’t even scream. I just said; “ohh… I walked it! “.

What do you think about the grade?
If it was 8c+ no one would say a word. But it is a 9a and no one says a word neither. In my opinion people are just growing stronger and a 9a is not an unearthly achievement any more.

What are your plans now?
There are routes I have in mind and places I would like to visit. But nothing in particular. I am not psyched to the one I dream about. I will see where I land and then choose something I would like to climb.

Thank you Piotr! We are sure that from now you will do a lot of 9a and harder routes!

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Climbing in Morocco

This month ValenciaClimb visits Morocco to discover the crag of Caiat, in the National Park of Talembote, in the heart of Rif. Just barely two hours from the Spanish border is the vast wall Caiat where traditional and big wall climbing predominates. It is an unknown place by climbers.

IMG_4221Photo: Pablo Benedito

Guarded by Abdul, at Cafe Rueda you will find the perfect ambient of a climbers refuge. You can stay for a small fee and they have updated tops of all climbing areas.

IMG_4132Photo: Pablo Benedito

A twenty minute drive from Caiat is the tourist town of Chefchaouen where they try to sell everything. But if you can wander through its streets you can see with in calm the beauty of the place. White and blue painted streets, with charming nooks.

IMG_4349Photo: Pablo Benedito
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Chulilla is fashion!

Photo: Pablo BeneditoPhoto: Pablo Benedito

You just have to walk around the village, the parking or the rocks to realize that Chulilla is fashion. More and more climbers are always coming to this village 60 Km from Valencia. The good conditions, the proximity to the city and the countless routes middle-hard grade make Chulilla one of the best crags for the winter climbing season.

IMG_2455Photo: Pablo Benedito

This place is getting more fanatic. Bars at night are full of climbers wanting to celebrate the achievements made on the rock drinking a beer and eating tapas. And not just the Valencian dare to challenge the long routes Chulilla, but people from all over Spain, and even around the world! A small tour around the parking and you will see license plates from all over Europe (Poland, Germany, England, Italy, France, …) next to hire cars. Those who don’t rent a flat are sleeping in the parking, which is already meeting point for many.

Piotr Bunsch climbing Primer Asalto (8c) in Chulilla, Spain from Valencia Climb on Vimeo.

And this place is magical. Its narrow streets, white houses overlooking the canyon and make you fall in love at first sight. And there are rock wherever you look at. The town itself is tucked into the canyon, with breathtaking views.

IMG_8378Photo: Pablo Benedito
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Piotr Bunsch sends the hardest route in Chulilla

Earlier this year Piotr Bunsch, founder of ValenciaClimb, sent Nin Gal (8c+) the hardest sport route so far in Chulilla (Spain). Chulilla is an incredible huge climbing area in Valencia with hundreds of routes and it is still growing. There are also a lot of projects that might be harder waiting for strong climbers to do the first ascent.

Piotr Bunsch climbing Nin Gal (8c+) in Chulilla, Spain from Valencia Climb on Vimeo.

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Céüse

1266493_4958145530707_1730415760_oKasia climbing Vagabond d’occident 7c in Cascade sector. Photo: Marcin “Śruba” Ciepielewski

ValenciaClimb visited the amazing crag Céüse in August!

mrhydePiotr climbing Mr. Hyde 8c+, in Biography sector. Photo: Marcin “Śruba” Ciepielewski
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Montserrat

Montserrat

ValenciaClimb together with some Swedish friends went the last week to a three days trip to Montserrat. As we wanted to combine climbing, a bit of hiking and sightseeing we choose to climb around the Monastery of Montserrat.

The first day we spend worming up a little bit on the crags next to the camping. There was a plan to sleep on the camping just next to the monastery but it’s a specific place. We couldn’t get there by car because it’s impossible. To sleep there it’s obligatory to have a tent and we – but for the one on the van’s roof had only one small tent.

Lowering a bit the standard we decided to sleep next to a closed refuge St. Cecilia together with some other local climbers. While others were preparing food one was collecting information about the best climbing around. The problem with Montserrat is that it is huge. You have to choose one area where you want to climb and as many climbers you find there that many other ideas about the best climbs you can get. Buying all the climbing guides is useless and it’s better to collect information on a site. Guidebooks can be find in hands of others, the camping and a climbing refuge St. Benet. Sant Benet was our next night destination. But before we went to some other peaks to find very easy and well equipped climbing. With our 100 meters rope we were even able to connect sometimes the first two pitches and make 50 meters top ropes. The grade on routes we climb was true. Routes graded five where truly easy climbs where everybody could easily move. The third day we decided to try some harder climbs in Sant Benet where what is more grade is considered to be very hard.

IMG_0708Photo: Pablo Benedito

The night we spend in the refuge in Sant Benet. It is a very climbers friendly place. Where just for five euro you can find a place to sleep with your own sleeping bag, water, heat, some beer and a very unique climate. It is the only refuge where you can smoke inside though all the others roles are to be respected. You want find there many facilities like toilet or a shower nether. The evening we spend playing ‘Janga’ and talking. Some people where snoring during the night. The refuge is an old small church – that is no longer a church – there is only one big room and you can very clearly here other people moving and making sounds.

After a lazy morning, cafe from the refuge’s boos and a healthy breakfast we went climbing.The crags we choose with two guys from the refuge. That wasn’t easy as they had many ideas. All in all we did climb on some sunny crags but covered with trees. It was sunny but a bit windy and the temperature was pleasant for not too hard climbs. We warmed up on a five and already noticed that it was a bit harder than those form yesterday.But still might be considered as a five. We had time only until 5 pm so moving fast we did some lower sixes. Piotr wanted to check weather what people say about the grade is true. He did one 7a+ OS. After that saying – ufff… I had to fight as on an 8a+ J. We all noticed that the grading is hard. But none of us thought it was totally missed.Just the style of climbing is a hard one. Many holds but many too small to hold. Sometimes you might think that the next one is huge but it’s not. Climbing in Montserrat requires very good foot work and technical skills. Because of that one can learn a lot while climbing in Montserrat.

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